Tag Archives: DIY

DIY Demolition!!

27 Mar

I haven’t blogged much about our woes trying to obtain the renovation permit for our coffee shop. I didn’t because I felt talking about it wouldn’t be positive and would just make things worse.   By things worse, I mean my attitude and faith.  To make a long story short, all we wanted to do was open a small coffee shop but it’s been a long painful journey.  (We actually started the process for our coffee shop dream in October 2011.)  It’s taken months and months working with city officials…and it’s also cost thousands and thousands of dollars.

For a tiny coffee shop with a small coffee bar, the city required us to hire architects and engineers.  We even had install things we’ll probably never use like a grease trap.  The trials have been exhausting both mentally and financially.

But I can talk about it now because it’s all in the past!

I finally have good news to report….we received our renovation permit!!!  WOOOOOOHOOOOOO!

We received our permit at 4pm last Thursday.  I immediately called our contractors but because of the last minute notice, none of them could come until the following week.

So instead of sitting still and waiting for contractors, my 66 year old dad and I decided to demo the place ourselves!!  My dad may be 66, but he’s the strongest toughest man I know.  He didn’t hesitate at all when I said I had hoped to start some demolition work.

So at 7am Friday, my dad and I started the demolition process!

(Half the left wall removed)

There was a wall that separated the store space that needed to be completely removed and a wall to the bathroom had to be removed so that the bathroom could be expanded.

 (Bathroom wall coming down)

It might seem like a fun job…knocking down walls.  But it was HARD work.  My right bicep still hurts like hell from swinging sledgehammers and even an axe at times.

(Starting on the other half of the big wall)

By the way, if you are considering tearing a wall and have never done it before…it’s VERY important to make sure the wall is not “load bearing“.  Load bearing means that part of the structure (usually the ceiling) is depending on it.  If a load bearing wall is removed, the structure above could collapse.  So please verify structure integrity before tearing down walls.  The walls we removed were not load bearing which is why we felt comfortable doing the project ourselves without professionals.

(Main wall almost completely down)

My dad and I completely demo’d out all the walls on Friday. Thanks to our demo work, the contractors were able to start working on carpentry, plumbing and electrical work today!!

(Demolition Complete!)

I’ll take pictures and start showing the entire transformation…which hopefully will be fully completed in a few weeks!

Viva La Revolucion!



DIY Aiden Gray Laundry Basket

28 Feb

Don’t you love Aiden Gray? I love all their vintage French inspired decor and have especially eyed this laundry basket for a long time.

Now thanks to Katie Steuernagle with Apartment Therapy, it’s possible to make a pretty close replica for $20. I don’t believe Katie made this to resemble Aiden Gray’s version but it would be close enough if the word “Laundry” was stenciled on. And not to mention a huge savings since Aiden Gray’s basket cost $252 plus shipping and tax.

The process looks easy to make with galvanized steel wire fencing.

You can check out Katie’s full tutorial with pictures here:



DIY Coffee Shop Chair Redos

21 Feb

Commercial restaurant chairs are very expensive.  We couldn’t find any restaurant quality chairs for our new coffee shop that cost under $100.  On one of my estate sale crusades, I happened to come across a warehouse that was being liquidated.  It was there I found these used restaurant chairs priced at $25 each.  Because we bought 18, they let us have them discounted at $15 each. Score!

The chairs were a great style that fit into the decor we were striving for.  They were well made with solid iron and wood yet lightweight and the perfect size to fit under the coffee shop tables we were going to use.

BUT as with most DIY great deals… they needed quite a bit of work.

The seat covers were in horrible condition and the fabric was damaged.

And the wood had seen a lot of wear and tear and was chipped all over.

Nothing a little fabric, sanding, stain and elbow grease can’t solve!

Thankfully my mother-in-law moved to San Antonio because she was my refinishing buddy on these chairs. Being that there were 18 of them, I needed all the help I could get.

First, the chairs were scrubbed clean.  Then the seat covers were unscrewed and removed.

Once the seat covers were removed, more problems were identified.

More scratches…

as well as discoloration and lots of dirt!

Which involved more and more cleaning.

Then we sanded away.  The chairs only needed a light sanding in most places but more extensive sanding in the chipped areas.  We sanded everywhere including the sides and even the parts of the chairs that weren’t damaged so that the stain would adhere.

Next, it was time to stain.  The chairs came in 3 colors and we wanted to maintain that variety and keep them the same color. I tried my best to find stain colors that matched the current colors and the colors that seemed to be best suited were Minwax’s Natural, Red Oak and Ebony.

The stain made a large difference.  The chairs actually looked new again.

Here are the red ones before…

and then after…

Looks new doesn’t it!?

After all the chairs were stained and the excess wiped off, Howard Feed N Wax sealer was applied.

Next it was time to work on the chair seats.  I don’t have pictures of this in process but it was very easy.  The old fabric was removed and new fabric was adhered by stapling underneath.  We used duck cloth which is one of my favorite fabrics to work with.  Duck cloth is relatively inexpensive and it’s strong enough to be used for upholstery fabric. It’s a thick canvas like material that’s very durable.  Duck cloth comes in lots of solid colors and is usually always available at most fabric stores.

Since the wood on the chairs came in a variety of colors, we decided to also use a little variation with the seat covers by using two different fabric colors: blue and grey.

Here are our assembly lines of our work in process.  All 18 seat covers were replaced and sprayed with 3 layers of Scotch Guard. Since they will receive lots of traffic, the Scotch Guard will help protect against spills and dirt.

The blonde and red colored chairs still have sealer drying on them but the black chairs are dry and completed.

All the black chairs are completely finished and have their new seat covers reattached.  I am really impressed with the difference.  Even though it was quite a bit of work, it was a large savings and the results are better than any of the “new” chairs available for purchase.

Here is another before and after comparison!

Such a transformation, don’t you agree?  I’m very excited about how well they are turning out. I’ll post pictures of all of them including the blonde and red ones after they are all completed this week.

- Angie

Tuesday’s DIY: 10 Minute Chair Makeover

7 Feb

These chairs needed a little updating.  I bought them at them at an estate sale recently and they were a great find at $30 bucks each.

The upholstery is in near perfect condition, they have great shape and they are mid-century which is one of my favorite styles.

Despite the blue checkered upholstery being in excellent shape, I’m not that keen on the print of the fabric. The print is adequate but the chair would look killer with a new bold bright fabric on it. However, because the fabric is in such good quality, it doesn’t seem rational to tear it off and redo it.  Not to mention upholstery fabric is expensive and this chair would require a tremendous amount of work to upholster.

My mind was racing trying to come up with an idea that would give these chairs a little facelift and also be both quick and economical.  Good thing I met my new San Antonio friend, Donno Rullo.  Donna, who is a brilliant designer and always full of great ideas suggested painting the legs.  Perfect idea!

So here is a quick makeover that took less than 10 minutes.  I painted the legs silver using Martha Stewart Precious Metals Paint in the shade Silver Leaf,

the same silver I previously used on this desk:

Painting the legs was the easiest furniture project I’ve probably ever completed. I painted two coats and the combined work time took 10 minutes.

The silver looks a little flat in the picture but in person, it’s really nice with lots of silver variations.  I think it made a big difference in the chair’s appearance and it now looks much more modern.

Here’s another side by side comparison.

What you do think about the new legs?!  Like? :)


Tuesday’s DIY :: Upcycled Frame

31 Jan

I found this huge open frame at a tag sale months ago for $3.  I couldn’t believe it.  It’s about 4 feet in length so I snatched it up, not knowing what to do with it.  It drives my husband crazy because we have a stack of frames in our garage.

Since we are still working on my daughter’s room, and she loves to write notes and play school, we decided to turn it into a chalkboard.  Not to original, I know, but it turned out great.

Using Annie Sloan’s Paris Grey, we started with this:

$3 frame

MDF board cut to size at Home Depot.  I just brought my measurements and they cut it for me.  The board cost about $1.50.

The frame looked like this originally:

I love the linen and gold border so I left those alone.  Now the frame looks like this:

It is so sweet and calming.

Using spray chalkboard paint:

Dropped it in the frame and duct taped it to the back:

Done.  And she loves it.  I love it too.

The entire project took less than 30 minutes and cost less than $5.

I’ll show the finished wall soon.  We painted 2 frames hot pink, distressed them and ordered large prints of her ballet shoes and riding her horse.  Can’t wait to get those on the wall!

I’ll be back tomorrow with my favorite recipe, ever.



A “Just Because” Apron

10 Jan

My family gives each other birthday gifts and thoughtful “just because” gifts but we don’t exchange Christmas gifts anymore.  It’s not a religious belief or anything of that nature. We just decided a few years ago that exchanging Christmas gifts for so many family members was too expensive and stressful on everyone.

You see, I have a family full of procrastinators. We all waited until the last minute to shop, and then had no idea what to buy each other in a frantic rush. One of us finally had the genius idea that we forego all the stressful shopping drama and only get together at Christmas for a good time.  We still buy Christmas presents for the all the children in our family but not a single adult receives a gift.  We think it’s the best way to spend Christmas because more money and energy are spent gifting the kids. Making Christmas special for the kids is really what’s most important to us.  Now we have a fun happy carefree Christmas… and the presents aren’t missed one bit.

We celebrated Christmas this year, at my middle sister’s Becky’s house (there are three of us sisters and I’m the oldest).  It was a fantastic pig out session full of turkey, loads of creamy carb loaded delights and most importantly…Becky’s famous cornbread dressing.

It also involved washing a million dishes afterwards. When my sister and I we cleaning up, my nieces and nephews teased me about wearing an apron. Let’s just say they didn’t think it was too hip.  The fashionista I try to be could have cared less because I love aprons.  Ever since starting to wear one a few months ago, I’ve been addicted.  Aprons are a necessity for me now because they keep my clothes spot free when cooking and cleaning.

Becky joked that if she ever wore an apron, it would have to be some sort of waterproof apron because she is really messy when it comes to spilling water liquids on herself.   Waterproof?!?  That got me thinking…

I instantly knew what she needed : an oilcloth apron.

And that’s how the the idea for a special just because gift for Becky was born!

I had been saving some oilcloth for months for a purse I envisioned in my mind and wanted to attempt to make.  Since I didn’t have the hardware needed to make the purse, I decided to sacrifice the oilcloth and make Becky her much needed waterproof apron.

And BAM, here it is!

By the way, if you haven’t heard of oilcloth before it’s a fabric material that is coated on one side to make it waterproof.  The coating is oil based, hence the name “oilcloth”.  I discovered it on a vacation in Mexico where it is commonly used for tablecloths.

Here are the instructions for making your very own waterproof apron. All that’s needed are basic sewing machine skills, hot glue, clear nail polish and ribbon (two sizes: wide and narrow).


  • 1 yard oilcloth
  • 7’5″ of  1.5″ width ribbon (for neck loop and waist ties)
  • 14′ of  3/8″ width ribbon (for exterior trim)
  • Clear nail polish

I started off drawing a pattern for the apron by hand.  This was probably my first ever free hand pattern and it couldn’t have been easier. An apron is basically a rectangle with concave cut outs at the top of each side. The concave cut makes the top of the apron narrower and frames the chest. My apron was approximately 27″ by 36″ (the wider section for the sides).  You can either attempt free handing or use another apron as a pattern.  (I’ll also try to figure out a way to create an apron pattern that can be download off our blog sometime in the future).

Cut the large width ribbon into the following lengths:  two 33″ pieces for waist ties and one 23″ piece for the neck loop.  I cut all the pieces with a straight edge except for one end of each waist tie which was given a slant cut shown below.  Those two slant ends will be the loose ends of the waist ties. The slant cut gives a more decorative edge and also helps with unraveling. (The straight edges will be sewn to the oilcloth which will also help against unraveling).

To further stop unraveling, I used a dab of nail polish on the ends of all the ribbon pieces, even the ones that will be sewn.  Clear polish works great but since I had a dark blue color that almost exactly matched the dark navy ribbon, I used it.

Sew the neck ribbon to both sides of the top of the apron using a 2/8″ seam.  This is necessary so that the 3/8″ decorative ribbon covers the stitching later.

After that sew each tie to the top of each side.

Next hot glue the thin ribbon to the entire perimeter of the apron.  I used a piece of paper underneath to protect my table from hot glue.

Glue flush to the oilcloth edge making sure to cover all stitch marks. Use only trace amounts of hot glue so that it doesn’t ooze under or through the ribbon (Only a tiny bit of hot glue is necessary).  I cut the ribbon at the corners to give it clean lines.

Once the entire perimeter has been covered with the trim ribbon the apron is complete.

That’s it.  Very simple and took about 45 minutes to make.

Now go make yourself one or give it as a gift just because. :)


Reversible Reusable Fabric Wine Bags

9 Jan

Over the holidays, we were lucky to have some of our projects featured one of our favorite blogs, PB&J Stories.  If you missed our projects on PB&J Stories, here’s your second chance!  These DIY gift bags are easy to make and have lots of great uses:

Gift bags for wine bottles can be expensive so I started making my own.  I discovered that it was easy and after the wine is gone, the bags can be repurposed for other things.  I use one of my favorite wine bags as a cover for my flat iron when traveling. It keeps the hot iron from burning the contents of my luggage when packing in a hurry.

Making your own is not only easy but it’s a great way to use up scrap fabric.  This tutorial will illustrate how to make a completely reversible wine bag…

when flipped inside out, it has a completely different look.

Start with two pieces of fabric: one 15″x18″ and the other 15″x14″.  I will refer to these two pieces as the long piece and the short piece.

I chose a piece of coffee bag for the short piece and a red printed canvas for the long piece.

Fold both pieces in half on the 15″ side (with the good sides facing inside).

Sew each piece on two sides creating a pocket.

Then flip only the short piece, right side out.

Stuff the short piece inside the long piece until the raw edges meet up.

Sew the raw edges together only 2/3 of the way around the circle.

Now flip the burlap bag right side out, using the hole (the 1/3 portion of the circle that wasn’t sewn together).

Then insert the long piece inside the short piece.

Blind stitch by hand the small remaining hole.

Now you have one wine bag holder with two different looks!

(If desired, a tie can be made by using a fabric strip 4.5″x 15″.  Sew two sides of the fabric with the good sides facing in.  Then flip inside out and hand sew remaining end closed.)

- Angie

Handmade Christmas :: Ruffled Tree Skirt

8 Dec

Hello friends!

I’ve been sitting on this project since the beginning of November.  Procrastinating because I knew it would be a beast.  Not expensive, just time consuming.

I kept putting it off.  Tree came up, I used my old tree skirt.  And ugh…hated it.

So Sunday was cold and rainy.  A perfect day to tackle it.

Using white lightweight denim I bought at Joann’s moving sale last year for $2.99 year less 50% (dirt cheap, I bought every yard I could find), I made a 5×5 square:

Folded into quarters, then a triangle:

And cut, with my little helper beside me:

Cut a slit on one side and you get this:

Then, ripped 5 yards of white broadcloth purchased at Hobby Lobby for $2.99/yard less 40%:

Using my favorite cheetah print, ripped half yard of 2inch stripes, and lots of hot glue..made pleats:

and pleats:

And 2 hours and 74 glue sticks later, I ended up with this:

I am in love.  My daughter wanted to sleep on it.

It is fabulous.

The little touch of leopard is perfect.

And I could not be happier.

And with that, this is my last holiday project of the year.  YAY!

Happy Thursday!



DIY Thanksgiving Pillow {Freezer Paper Stencil}

15 Nov

Angie and I had a conversation the other day on the whole Silhouette/Cricut product…we want one but we really don’t want to spend the money on it.

We could buy a whole lotta junk to paint for the price of Silhouette.

I told Angie that I just made a pillow using a freezer paper stencil and it worked beautifully.

And for a fraction of the cost, literally.  A huge roll of freezer paper cost me $3.99.  Now, if Silhouette wants to send Angie and I one to try out, we are all for it…but for now, Angie and I both feel the same that a Silhouette is not in our budget.

So…I give you the good old freezer paper stencil tutorial.

My first thoughts were to use a green burlap and silver glitter spray.  That did not turn out as planned.  It was awful. Krylon’s Glitter Blast is not my friend right now.

After the burlap flop, I went through my pile of fabric and found a pretty winter white cotton and used my favorite Martha Stewart Vintage Gold Metallic paint.  I love that paint…love it.

First, I created a template, found HERE or HERE.

Printed on the DULL side of the freezer paper

Taped it to cardboard.

Using an exacto knife, traced around each letter to create my stencil.

freezer paper stencil

Then, with a hot iron, ironed with the SHINY side down on the fabric.

With my daughter’s paintbrush, dipped and painted…

martha stewart metallic gold paint vintage gold


Then carefully peeled away the freezer paper.


I used a little gem for the “A”

Sewed 3 sides, stuffed…and sewed the last side…

And there she is…sitting pretty.


Do you love?  Have you ever used freezer paper before?

I’m dying to make something else using a freezer paper stencil and I think I have something in mind for Christmas…and so does Angie!

Happy Tuesday, friends!!



Check out these fun blogs for amazing inspiration!

Between Naps on the PorchDIY ShowoffDomestically SpeakingFinding FabulousFunky Junk InteriorsHouse of HepworthsMiss Mustard SeedMy Backyard EdenPerfectly ImperfectPrimitive & ProperRemodelaholicSAS InteriorsShabby NestWhipperberryToday’s Creative BlogThe Thrifty HomeSavvy Southern StyleSome Day CraftsEisy MorganGreen Door Designs,  At Home with KHome Stories A2Z


DIY Whiteboard Wall

13 Oct

I mentioned that I was a superhero last week- that’s because I was so productive! I don’t think I’ve ever been so effective.  I finished most of the old projects in my garage and even started some new ones.  AND…also surprised my husband, Manny, big time.

Manny was in California all week working and when he came back to Texas on Friday night he was stunned to see I finished building a floor to ceiling whiteboard for him in his home office.

Here it is!

A whiteboard may not sound exciting but Manny has been wanting one for his office for quite some time.  Buying a whiteboard wasn’t possible because large ones are very expensive and hard to find. Buying small ones and piecing them together would take away from the goal of having one continuous whiteboard.

Moving across the country two months ago helped delay the project.  When we moved into our new rental home, it also delayed the project because I wasn’t sure how in the world to make an entire wall covered with whiteboard paint without damaging a wall.   Our lease is up in 10 months and I am not sure where we will live when that occurs.  There is a chance we might be able to buy this house but that is so undetermined since we still might need to sell our house in Los Angeles.  If we move out, the last thing I want to do while packing up and moving out is repaint and retexture a room.  Kudos to all those renters that modify and paint but I am still on the fence about doing that.

So until I get crazy ambitious and paint a wall, I figured out another solution– covering the wall with thin boards before using whiteboard paint.  The boards can easily be removed if/when we move out.

That’s my handsome dad helping me hang the boards.  I never usually have help with my DIY projects but thanks goodness my dad stopped by to help with this one because the large sized boards were too difficult for one person to hold up.

This whiteboard project would have been much simpler had I not had to cover the walls with wood.  The whiteboard paint could have just been painted directly on the walls. Whiteboard paint can be painted on practically any surface but here is the long complicated way I completed this project to protect the walls.  If you don’t need to protect the walls, just skip on down to the whiteboard paint part of the tutorial.

One tip when using whiteboard paint is that the surface MUST be very very smooth.  Whiteboard paint is not an epoxy.  It will not flatten out uneven surfaces. I learned this after completing this project.  If you start with a rough surface, you will end up with a rough surface.  Whiteboard paint is pretty much the same consistency and texture as regular paint so keep that in mind before applying.  If the wall has a textured surface, you will get a textured whiteboard.  It will still work like a whiteboard but be pretty dang difficult to write on top of wall texture bumps.

Here’s the how to make a whiteboard:

I bought two thin boards for $12 each.  They are about 1/8 inch thick.

The picture above shows the completed whiteboard from the side.  The boards are so thin, the whiteboard is flush with the wall.

The boards were originally 8′ x 4′ but I had them cut down slightly to fit between the crown molding.  The original plan was to make the entire wall a whiteboard but because of a huge air-conditioning vent at the bottom right side of the wall, we could only cover a portion of the wall.

It ended up working out well because now my husband can put other things like pictures or a calendar on the right side.   I’m starting to decorate his office so I’ll let you know about the fun stuff happens there soon!

Nail boards to the wall using thin nails.  It needs to be small nails with thin, barely there nail heads so that there are not any indentions on the board surface.  Nails that look almost like a pin. The surface needs to be flat as possible. If large screws or nails are used it will be very hard to cover up and sand down so many holes with wood filler.

Here is how we installed the boards.

If more than one board is used, wood filler will need to be used between boards to make it look like one continuous sheet.  I filled with wood filler and sanded twice to get it smooth.

Then I taped the sides with painters tape and applied five coats of latex primer.  Five!!

The wood I used was pretty smooth but I wanted to make the whiteboard as smooth as possible which is the reason for applying 5 coats.  The first two coats just absorbed into the wood and it was really only the last 3 that started to give it good coverage.  I also lightly sanded between coats to help ensure smoothness.

All five coats were applied using this tiny smooth roller..which is one of my new favorite toys.  I used this roller on a few other projects including painting furniture and am really pleased with the results.  Pretty smooth finish and the roller doesn’t suck up or waste a bunch of paint.

Priming took two days to give the paint adequate time to dry.  Then it was time to whiteboard!  I didn’t buy the Idea Paint I talked about before.  Idea Paint was more expensive ($175.00) and it also required shipping.  I had already held off on this project long enough and didn’t want to wait longer for it to get shipped.

I ended up using Rust-oleum which I bought at Home Depot. It was substantially cheaper –$21/kit.  Each kit can provide two coats of a paint for a 7′ by 7′area so I bought two kits.  (Something to consider if you want to do this project is the Rust-oleum only comes in white.  Idea Paint comes in several colors.)

The whiteboard paint kit comes in a two part solution.

Mix Part A with Part B to activate solution.

Stir well.

Then start painting using a roller designed to leave a smooth finish.

Each coat an be applied after the prior coat has had 20-30 minutes drying time. All coats must be completed within 2 hours.

At least two coats of whiteboard paint are recommended.  I painted 4 coats.

And here it is!

Now Manny can talk to clients and plan and outline their needs visually at the same time.

Overall, we were very 90% satisfied with the Rust-oleum kit. We were pleased with the whiteboard paint but the texture was not as smooth as I thought it would be. I sanded the raw wood pretty smooth but still the whiteboard paint dried with an oh so slight bumpy textured surface.  I hate to call it bumpy because the bumps are barely there.  You can’t even see the bumps well but I just thought the whiteboard paint would be glass like which is why I warned above about making sure the surface is very smooth before painting. I am not blaming the whiteboard paint…perhaps it was my roller or the wood?  I hate to complain because were were happy and would use this product again…but am still left wondering if maybe the Idea Paint is better and would provide a more perfect result.  Regardless, it is one really nice whiteboard and my husband loves it.

Here are the costs of the project:

  • Two 8′ x 4′ x 1/8″ boards $22
  • Two Rust-oleum whiteboard paint kits $42
  • TOTAL COST = $64 plus tax (I already owned the painter’s tape, roller and primer.  If installing boards is not necessary, project costs will reduce $22 based on same size whiteboard.)





Check out these fun blogs for amazing inspiration!

Between Naps on the PorchDIY ShowoffDomestically SpeakingFinding FabulousFunky Junk InteriorsHouse of HepworthsMiss Mustard SeedMy Backyard EdenPerfectly ImperfectPrimitive & ProperRemodelaholicSAS InteriorsShabby NestWhipperberryToday’s Creative BlogThe Thrifty HomeSavvy Southern StyleSome Day CraftsEisy MorganGreen Door Designs,  At Home with KHome Stories A2Z


Burlap Pillow {tutorial}

22 Sep

Burlap Pillow {tutorial}

“A ma vie de coer entier” translates to “My Whole Heart For My Whole Life”

I love anything french…french fries, french toast, french wine…

I’ve seen these pillows here and I’ve loved them…

But at $120 there is absolutely no way I could justify spending that for a pillow.

And you know how much Angie and I love burlap these days and my heart has been aching for a pillow.

So what’s a girl to do?

Make it herself…in less than 30 minutes while Little Man was napping:

1/4 yard of burlap: $2.99 less 40% = $1.18 at Hobby Lobby
Pillow stuffing: already owned from my baby bedding making days
Brown paint: from my paint stash
Stencils: $2.99 less 40% = $1.18 at Hobby Lobby

Since I was not using a pillow form, I decided on a 15″ square pillow. I measured about 15.5″ to allow for 1/2 inch seam:

Pin it:

my whole heart for my whole life pillow

Sew 4 straight lines…leaving the last side half open to allow for stuffing or a pillow insert:

Turn the newly created pillow right-side out (is that how you say it?) and press the edges.  You especially want to do this when working with burlap because it is a denser material.

I got my handy new stencils:


Penciled “my whole heart for my whole life”….it was completely free handed.  I don’t have much time or patience for measuring and like things to look messy vintage:

I used a sponge brush, diluted the brown paint with water on plain paper plate (I am fancy!):

Looking good…

The cluster stuff can be found at Walmart or Hobby Lobby and it is super soft and fluffy:

Be sure to push the stuffing into each corner:

Pin the opening closed and sew either by hand, which takes too long, or back to your machine:

burlap pillow

And find your pillow a new home where everyone can it!

And that is it.  A french burlap pillow made in less than 30 minutes for less than $3….that is a happy day!

We {heart} you friends!



Check out these fun blogs for amazing inspiration!

Between Naps on the PorchDIY ShowoffDomestically SpeakingFinding FabulousFunky Junk InteriorsHouse of HepworthsMiss Mustard SeedMy Backyard EdenPerfectly ImperfectPrimitive & ProperRemodelaholicSAS InteriorsShabby NestWhipperberryToday’s Creative BlogThe Thrifty HomeSavvy Southern StyleSome Day CraftsEisy MorganGreen Door Designs,  At Home with KHome Stories A2Z


Sewing Concrete

15 Sep

Sewing Concrete

Totally in love with this furniture I stumbled upon today.  Made of concrete!

German designer Florian Schmid created these sleek concrete stools.  Florian was inspired by a material called Concrete Canvas, concrete cloth that can be molded when wet.

Seeing this really gets the creative juices flowing!  Can you imagine the things that could be made with this?  Do you have any cloth concrete ideas!?

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